Ad Clicks : Ad Views : Ad Clicks : Ad Views : Ad Clicks : Ad Views : Ad Clicks : Ad Views :

How to Make a Nut Starter for HF 7×10 Minilathe Chuck Nuts

How to Make a Nut Starter

7x10 Minilathe Chuck Nuts

This item is a small clamp to hold a nut while starting it onto a stud when changing chucks on the HF 7×10 mini-lathe. You place the nut flat into the clamp opening, turn the clamp-bolt down finger tight against the side of the nut, and then start the nut on the stud as described below.

When holding a nut, the clamp is thin enough to fit between the headstock and the back of a stud.

Usage:
Place the nut to be started into the slot of the clamp and tighten the clamp-bolt to hold it in place. Rotate the lathe spindle until a stud of the chuck is near the top front corner, to provide maximum swing for clamp rotation. With a springy strip or thin screwdriver blade between the headstock and the clamp, lightly force the clamp and nut against the stud.

7x10nutstarter5

Picture above illustrates this. Now rotate the clamp through a wide arc to engage the nut onto the stud, remove the clamp, and finish tightening the nut. Materials needed:

  • 1 ea. 5/16″ square steel bar, 1.5″ long.
  • 1 ea. #10-32 bolt, about 2.5″ long.
  • 1 ea. #10-32 nut.
  • 1 ea. 1/2″ round steel bar, about 5/8″ long.

Construction:
See “plans” in picture above.

The clamp body is 5/16″ (0.3125″, or about 8mm) square by 1.5″ long. (This bit of 5/16″ square was sawn from 5/16″x1.5″ bar stock.) I first drilled a .188″ #10-bolt clearance hole 1/2″ deep and then drilled through with a .162″ bit (tap drill for #10-32). Then I cut a recess .4″ wide by .2″ deep (slightly larger than the 10mm wide x 5mm thick 6×1 metric nut) near one end of the clamp body, leaving about 1/8″ of metal behind and below the recess.

(The finish on this clamp would be better if I had cut the recess with an endmill rather than filing it out, but it works ok anyway.) I tapered the sides of the recess and the clamp end for better clearance, thus allowing the nose of the clamp to clear the spindle below the stud.

I threaded the 0.162″ hole in the clamp body to receive the #10-32 bolt. At the head of the bolt, I added a short length of .5″ round, drilled through .188″, to act as a knob. I fastened this with a nut, but a knob could have been threaded on or brazed in place.

Author: James Waldby

This div height required for enabling the sticky sidebar